CITY GUIDE: Kuala Lumpur : East Morphs Into West 
International Herald Tribune
December 8, 2000
Thomas Fuller

Malaysia recently opened a tourism campaign called "Truly Asia," with television commercials showing people in various traditional costumes swaying to the beat of ethnic drums. Visitors lured to Kuala Lumpur by those ads are quite likely to be disappointed: "Truly Western" is perhaps a better way of describing the capital. Skyscrapers, shopping malls, coffee joints and nightclubs fill the heart of the city. Residents have always loved sitting outdoors at tea stalls; these days they sip cappuccino at Starbucks.

The city is one of Southeast Asia's most modern and cosmopolitan capitals. And unlike Jakarta and Bangkok, which were paralyzed by the Asian financial crisis three years ago, the Malaysian capital grew and grew. In the past two years, the city has inaugurated the world's tallest buildings, a philharmonic orchestra, subway lines, a big, centrally located park, museums and a massive airport.

Kuala Lumpur offers visitors some of the lowest priced five-star hotels in the world, as well as inexpensive shopping for electronics, computers, leather goods and camera gear. The city is also efficient — the perfect place, perhaps, to hold a big convention. But for those seeking exoticism and displays of traditional Asian cultures, try Bali. -----OUR CORRESPONDENT'S PICKS THE BUZZ Cocktail chatter in Kuala Lumpur these days often turns to Malaysia's No. 1 question: When will Mahathir bin Mohamad, who has been prime minister for two decades, step down? Politically, the country is ready to move on from the system Mahathir has presided over: Newspapers print what the government wants, opposition politicians often end up in prison, and no one in government dares to publicly contradict the prime minister. Malaysia is in the middle of a slow political transition, preparing for the post-Mahathir world and looking forward to the end of its benign police-state mentality. Fortunately for visitors, there are very few overt signs of authoritarianism. This remains one of the most open economies in the world and Malaysians are hospitable and friendly. HOTELS Luxury lovers of the world, welcome to five-star heaven! It is difficult to pay more than $120 a night for a five-star hotel room in Kuala Lumpur these days. Before the crash of 1997 the government encouraged hotel construction with tax breaks, so inexpensive five-star rooms abound. The brand-new, centrally located Mandarin Oriental charges $84 for a room on weekdays, including breakfast, and $79 on weekends: Kuala Lumpur City Center; tel: (60-3) 380-8888. Down the road, the Shangri-La charges $110 for a room on weekdays but throws in a free airport transfer, breakfast and laundry. The weekend rate is a rock-bottom $60 with breakfast: 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail; tel: 232-2388. The Ritz-Carlton has rooms for $71 (268 Jalan Imbi; tel: 241-0828) and the Hilton charges $66 including taxes but not breakfast (Jalan Sultan Ismail; tel: 248 2322). Those are just a few deals. DINING Trendy restaurants have sprouted up all over the city. Specialties range from Italian to Malay to Chinese and Indian and reservations are rarely necessary. Twenty minutes by taxi from the middle of the city is the young and hip suburban neighborhood of Bangsar, filled with restaurants, bars and food stalls, an easy target for an informal night out. Bars and restaurants are open daily and many don't close until well past midnight. Or try the restaurants at the foot of the Petronas Towers, the world's tallest buildings: They offer outdoor dining, a rarity in Southeast Asia's muggy and polluted capitals. COCKTAILS Two extremes: A drink at Carcosa Seri Negara, the former residence of the British governor-general, offers a taste of colonial grandeur. It's an elegant mansion-cum-hotel surrounded by jungle and built on a hill on the outskirts of the city. There's high-tea from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. for 45 ringgit (about $11) or cocktails on the veranda overlooking the city: Taman Tasik Perdana; tel: (60-3) 282-1888; fax: 282-7888. For a more relaxed night out, there are the outdoor cafés around the renovated Bukit Bintang area, which also includes a decent selection of restaurants. Or there's the throbbing streets in Bangsar, with a choice of a few dozen bars, cafés and restaurants. EXERCISE Every major hotel has a gym and many have mini spas as well. There are several very pleasant jogging paths in and around the city but this requires getting up early; only the bravest and fittest dare jog in the mid-day heat. The path in the central park, known as Kuala Lumpur City Center is well-designed and made of crushed rubber that is soft on the feet. On the outskirts of the city near the Parliament building are the Lake Gardens, with several hilly paths cutting through forest ringing the lake. THE TOWERS Until a few months ago, visitors to Kuala Lumpur were not allowed to inspect Petronas Towers, the pride of the capital; many complained. What's the point, they asked, of building the world's tallest buildings if you can't climb up and see the view? The owners, the national oil company, now offer free tours daily starting at 9 a.m. and 2 p.m., except Friday afternoon. Visitors are taken half-way up to the bridge that connects the towers, but there are no tours to the top floors. KID STUFF The central park has a tendency to send the tamest of children into rampages of joy. There are dozens of slides, swings, see-saws and big, modern plastic things to climb all over. The ground is padded with deep pockets of rubber to cushion falls. But the real attraction is the large wading pool and artificial waterfalls designed for frolicking and splashing. The park closes at 9 p.m. SHOPPING Computers are duty free in Malaysia so it's worth checking prices. The best buys can be found at Imbi Plaza. Or try the computer wing of the Mid Valley Mega Mall, a huge place just outside the city. For those planning to be in town for more than a few days, you can have a computer shipped from the United States and delivered to Malaysia without any customs hassles. LAPTOP REPAIR The Ritz employs a ''technology butler'' 24 hours a day. Otherwise, you can bring your wounded PC to Imbi Plaza and inquire at any of the several dozen computer shops. For Macs call MacCorner at 9368 3190, or Gallant Zone at 9368 3062 or 7880 6166. Both will pick up your Mac for an extra charge. BUSINESS SERVICES Regus Instant Offices rents temporary boardrooms and video-conferencing facilities on the 40th floor of the Petronas Towers. It's open from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., but rented offices are available to customers around the clock; tel: 2168 4300; www.regus.com. MORE INFO See the government's tourist site, www.tourism.gov.my, or call the tourist information offices from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; tel: 2274 6063 or 2164 3929. Thomas Fuller is the IHT's correspondent in Kuala Lumpur.

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